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HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES, j Report 

I No. ITOl. 



TO MARK THE ROUTE OF THE OREGON TRAIL. 



May 12, 1908. — Committed to the Committee of the ^Vhole House on the state of the 
Union and ordered to be printed. 



Mr. McCall, from the Committee on the Library, submitted the 

following* 

REPORT. 

[To accompany H. R. 20477.] 

The Committee on the Library, to whom was referred the bill 
(H. R. 20477) authorizing- the President to appoint a commissioner 
to supervise the erection of monuments and markers and locate the 
general route of the Oregon trail, recommend that the bill be passed. 

The Oregon trail was one of tlie '* great battletields " of the country. 
The committee quotes the following dramatic description, written by 
Hon. Ezra Meeker, of Puyallup, \A'ash., who was one of those who 
went over the trail more than a half century ago and who speaks 
from personal experience. He has by his own efforts, and largel}' at 
his own expense, marked the trail, and to hun more perhaps than to 
any other individual is due the interest in the subject that has led to 
its consideration by Congress. 

Made possible by tlie discovery in 1824 of that wonderful gap in the Rocky Moun- 
tains known as the "South Pass," the Oregon trail did not become a national high- 
way until Bonneyville and Wyeth in 1832 and 1833 traversed the whole length, from 
the Missouri River to the tide waters of the Pacific. The missionaries, trappers, and 
traders soon wore a visible wagon track to the traders' rendezvous on the Green River 
and beyond to Fort Hall on the upper reaches of Snake River, but not until tlie 
greater immigration of the Oregon home seekers, a thousand strong, with their wagon 
train in 1843 passed over to the Pacific, did the Oregon trail become in fact a great 
national highway. Each year thereafter wagon trains passed over the whole route 
to the Oregon country in varying numbers, wearing the track deeper and deeper 
until finally the greater exodus of 1852, when a column 50,000 strong movecl out 
from the Missouri River and lined the trail with the dead, 5,000 or more in number 
for that one year alone. Meanwhile the Mormon migration had followed in the 
track of the Oregon jiioneers for fully a thousand miles to the great bend of Bear 
River. The California movement of 1849 and later also followed in the same track 
to Bear River or to Fort Hall, where the California trail diverged, as did the Mormon 
track also, and bore off to the southwest, while the Oregon trail kept steadily on to 
the northwest. 

The trail had indeed become a great national highway 2,000 miles long. Fully 
300,000 people crossed over what might be termed the "eastern section" before the 
advent of the Pacific railroad, which diverted the later traffic, and the trail again 



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2 TO MARK THE ROUTE OF THE OREGON TRAIL. 

became a solitude, but n^t until fully 5,000,000 head of stock passed over, either east 
or west, and had worn the trail so deep that the track in places might readily be 
mistaken for ^reat railroad cuts. 

The object of marking this historic trail is the same as the marking of any other 
great battlefield of history. The winners of the farther West that passed over this 
trail fought a strenuous battle, and the trail became a l)attletield from one end to the 
other, ."^i.x dead to the mile upon a stretch of 400 miles up the Tlatte tells the ghastly 
story. Nor was this all. The fallen could be counted in groui)s of fifties and seven- 
ties "beyond where this count was made. History does not record the battlelield of 
greater carnage than that of the Oregon trail; neither is there any record of so long 
a trail or of one that wrought such historic changes. The joint-occupancy treaties 
with (ireat Britain left the settlement of the Oregon boundary virtually to be deter- 
mined by a race as to whom should, as home builders, occupy the country first. The 
Hudson Bay Company began bringing in settlers from the Red River of the North, 
and not until the opening of the Oregon trail for wagons to the Oregon country, with 
their precious freight of home builders, was the question settled as to the prepon- 
derance of the American settlement over that fostered by the Hudson Bay Company. 
Immediately this was accomplished, an American provisional government was 
formed and the British rule ended. 

No more heroic act is recorded in history than this of the Oregon pioneers holding 
firmly the disputed territory while many of our statesmen were decrying the Oregon 
country and preparing the way for a shameful surrender. The American people owe 
a deep'debt of gratitude to those intrepid pioneers, and their trail should be uiarked 
and the memory of it preserved religiously as a great landmark in the history of the 
nation, not only that future generations may know that the great struggle to advance 
our national boundary to the Pacific, but likewise to keeji alive that patriotic zeal so 
helpful in the perpetuation of our Government. 

In the measure we keep the memories of the heroic past fresh in the minds of our 
people, {)atriotic fervor is fanned, the flag more revered, and our national stability 
better assured. 

The quotation following is taken from a letter, read to the committee 
bv Mr. D. B. Miller, of the Interior Department, written November 
2i. 1852, to lion. Hugh Miller, Rochester, Ind.. by his brother. Dr. 
Silas V. Miller, who moved from Fulton County, Intl.. to Salem, Oreg., 
in 1852. This letter describes the trip over the Oregon trail, and is 
well worth quotation, because in all probability it records experiences 
had in common with many thousands of others. Doctor Miller had 
organized a company consisting of hve teams, taking young men from 
his neighborhood to drive them, and using cows instead of oxen to draw 
the wagons, so that the company might have fresh milk. The letter 
is as follows, omitting some of the personal references: 

Leaving Pleasant Grove, Fulton County, Ind., March 24, LS52, thence via the fol- 
lowing towns: Monticello, Lafayette, Mellford, Independence, Atica, Danville, 111.; 
Bloomington, Peoria, Knoxville, Burlington, Iowa; Middletown, Birmingham, 
lowaville, Drakesville, Unionville, Gardengrove, Pisgah, Kainsville (now Council 
Bluffs), 772 miles, crossed the river (Missouri) at this point May 20. 

North side of Platte to Fort Laramie, 574 miles. North side of Platte, 209 miles, to 
Sweetwater. Up Sweetwater, 107 miles, to sununit of South Pass, junction of Salt 
Lake and Sublets Cut-off; 19 miles to (:ireen River or Salt Lake Road; 44 miles on 
Keenies Cut-off to Hams Fork, where Sublets Cut-off crosses that branch of Bear 
River (this is a mistake, as Hams Fork flows into Green River), thence to Fort Hall, 
on Sublets Cut-off, 180 miles; thence on south side of Snake River or Lewis Fork of 
Columbia River to Fort Boise, 880 miles; thence to The Dalles, 375 miles; thence to 
Portland, 155 miles by water (on the Columbia); thence to Salem, 60 miles by water 
(on the Willamette River) to Salem, Oreg. 

* * * ■ * » * * 

After a great deal of trouble and expense, I got in company with my teams at 
lowaville. I missed them at Peoria; they took the left-hand road; they should have 
taken the riglit. W^e thought best to lay ]:)y for a week to recruit our teams, which 
we did near lowaville. 

From thence we made our way to Kainsville (now Council Bluffs). In the 
Western States I found no country that possessed any advantage over northern 
Indiana for farming. Kainsville is situated 4 miles from the Missouri River in a 



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TO MARK THE ROUTE OE THE OREGON TRAIL, 3 

ravine. The buildings are mostly small and built of logs and occupied by Mormons 
and teachers and only supported by travelers. 

The Mis^souri River is a muddy deep river; in fact, all the streams in Iowa were 
muddy and warm. 

On the 20th of May we crossed the Missouri, we rolled our 2 miles and camped; 
the 21st rolled 6 miles. Passed the old Mormon winter (|uarters. Mere the Mor- 
mons, after they were driven from Nauvoo, attempted to form a city. They built 
a strong wail around the city. It being on Indian territory the Indians complained. 
The Indian agent gave them notice to evacuate the city, which they did in due 
time. It is astonishing the amount of work they did in so short a time, taking into 
consideration that during their stay in that place an epidemic broke out among 
them from which they died by the hundreds. 

This epidemic was supposed to be some kind of a poison in the water. 

On the 21st of May we formed into a company (made necessary as a means of 
defense against Indian attacks), 12 wagons; had our ofKcers, etc. May 22 moved 
on to a creek. 

There is a miserable low tribe of Indians that inhabit the country up and down 
the Missouri River, called the Omahaws or Ninahaws. They are harmless to all 
appearances. 

Elk Horn is a considerable stream 30 miles from Kainsville. There was but one 
ferry when w'e were there. They charged $2 per wagon, and carried one across 
every five minutes, and were behind a day when we got there. The owner of the 
ferry was a crusty old fellow, and the emigrants had to ferry themselves. He 
cleared himself 8500 per day. I understood they had put another ferry a short 
distance below after we passed. 

For 200 miles after we crossed the Missouri we passed over a splendid prairie coun- 
try. The only possible objection that could be urged against this country is the want 
of timber. 

Twelve miles from the Elk Horn we struck the Platte River. We found good 
grass all the way near the river, but out from 1 to 4 miles from the river high sand 
bluffs follow the stream. Between these bluffs and the river is what is called "The 
Platte Bottom." On these bluffs there is scarcely a trace of vegetation, except occa- 
sionally some sage brush or greasewood. We found some little valleys still farther 
out, where we saw considerable herds of buffalo and millions of w^olves and antelope 
of every color and size. 

1 he antelope is something shaped like a deer; their horns fall back in a half circle; 
their quarters are squarer and heavier than a deer's. They run very fast and are 
very wild. We also saw any quantity of hare. They are nearly white and about 3 
times as large as our rabbit. 

West of Elk Horn and on the river (Platte) we saw the first Pawnees. They are 
numerous and occupy a great extent of country; they area black, tall, slim Indian- 
very sneaking, beggarly, thieving class of beings. They shave their heads all but a 
narrow strip which runs from the corner to the back of their necks; this they have 
about 2 inches long; it makes them have a very wild and savage appearance. They 
let on to l)e very friendly, but if they could get any of the emigrants out where they 
could strip them, they did not fail to do so, and in some cases wotdd even kill them. 
They are at war with all other nations from Loup Fork, which we came up some 60 
miles and crossed, then struck to the Platte, 30 miles in a southwesterly direction. 

The Sioux Indians inhabit to Fort Laramie. They are a large, fine looking Indian. 
They are also a very numerous tribe. They are trying to kill all the Pawnees. I 
wish them great success in their pious work. 

The country from Loup fork to Fort Laramie bears a more barren appearance, 
though we still have grass by picking over places for grazing. We found some 
alkali here in places The distance between these points is about 300 miles. 

If I were going to cross again, I would use the Platte water for between these points. 
The water was so warm we were obliged to dig little wells and use the water which 
was usually cold and a little alkali. 

I was talking to a mulateer that had come up the Platte when the emigration 
had nearly all passed. He said tliat from Louj) fork to Laramie the average was 6 
graves to the mile. From other accounts I would think this estimate was none too 
great. 

When we came in sight of tlie fort (Laramie), it looked like a settlement of houses. 
There was a store, the grocery, several dwellings, and the fort and soldiers' quarters, 
which is a long shed or stable appearing building, and the magazine house. 

The fort is a long, hollow square about 30 feet high and walls about 20 inches 
thick, built of sunburned brick, 3 or 4 cannon mounted on the walls. There are 
several small rooms on the inside of this square and a kind of platform on the 



4 TO MARK THE ROUTE OF THE OREGON TRAIL. 

inside 4 or 5 feet from the top and wide eniugli for six men to walk abreast. Near 
this is the magazine house. It is under strong guard day and night. 

Tliis s(juad of buildings in situated about 2 miles from the Platte on the Lara- 
mie fork. 

The first fort built here was on the north side and a little up the Platte about 
sixty years ago. The next was built by Captain Laramie on or near the present 
fort. There were about HO soldiers stationed here when we passed. The soldiers 
are under absolute control by their officers. They are mostly all boys and foreigners. 

Four miles above Fort Laramie we .struck the Black Hills. It is about 40 miles 
through these hills, through which the road is very rough. 

We l)egan to see some bad roads now, but nothing to what we saw after we crossed 
Green River. The Black Hills are covered with scrubl)y pine and cedar. At a dis- 
tance they look black, being clothed with this dark verdure. I suppose hence the 
name. 

From here to The Dalles (on Columbia River, Oregon) we only had patches of 
grass. Sometimes two or three days without any grass, then we would have a little 
for two or three days, then none, and so on. 

From the Black Hills on there was a specie of sagebrush that increased in size 
and ([uantity until we got to the summit of the Rocky Mountains. 

This l)rush varied in size from 1 to 7 feet high. It was usually about 18 inches or 
2 feet in height. 

There are occasional patches of grease wood which has thorns like hawthorns, 
and the surface is literally covered with cactus, this vegetation increasing in quantity 
to the summit, afterwards decreasing. 

.\fter we left the Platte we struck for Sweetwater. Then we began to see moun- 
tains on the north and south. The mountains are })iles of rock. 

p]very night we could hear on these mountains wild animals; the bear, wolf, and 
cougar. This animal is a specie of the tiger. 

In 50 miles we came to independence Rock. It is about 150 feet high, 300 feet 
long, and is oblong. Thousands of names are cut in this rock of granite. 

Five miles farther on we came to the Devils Gate. This pass is formed by the 
Sweetwater as it were breaking through the spur of the Rattlesnake Mountains. The 
walls of the gate are about 250 feet perpendicular. We were 6 miles south of this 
gate on the 4th of July, where we had a celebration— an oration from a lawyer from 
Quincy, 111., a fine dinner, a flag, singing, reading of the Declaration of Independ- 
ence. The names of every man, woman, and child were enrolled, names of ofificers, 
and preamble all were taken on pajier then pasted on a board and nailed to the 
liberty pole. 

In addition to all the fine dishes we could usually obtain in the States to our fare 
was added antelope and sage fowl. It was a great day with us. 

The 5th of July we started on right up Sweetwater, still rising until we came to 
the summit. The rise to the summit was so gradual that we could not tell from 
appearance when we were on the dividing ridge, though in a mile or so we came to 
what is called "The Pacific Springs." Here the water turned west. Nothing im- 
portant transj)ire(l on the route from where we struck Sweetwater until we got to 
the summit. We still had trouble about feed, but our cattle looked pretty well. 

We saw suow in the ravines and under ledges of rocks, and it snowed very hard 
the day we crossed the summit (about July 12). We went on until we crossed 
Green River and our company separated. Here eight wagons went to California, 
five took Keenies cut-off to intersect Sublets cut-off at Hams Fork of Bear River 
(should be Green River). Here we passed over some stupendous mountains near 
Hams Fork. We then came on to Bear River, where we had better grazing. We 
came down that stream 60 miles, but did not cross it. We left the California road 
and Bear River 4 miles this side of Soda Springs, 

The Soda Springs are -some of the great curiosities of nature. When you come 
within 4 miles of the springs you see two white mounds ahead. Bear River near to 
the left. A little farther to the left are Bear River Mountains, which are very high 
and couunanding. To the right is Cedar (irove. You approach the mounds, you 
see water gushing out, bubbling and sputtering. A little basin catches nearly all the 
water, a little water issuing out of the basin and coursing its way down the side of 
the mound. When you walk f)n the mound it seems lu)llow or shelly within. You 
taste the water, it is lukewarm and lias a strong soda taste and is rather red in 
appearance. You then go to the other mound a little farther to the right, 100 
yards from the first. There you see a similar spring, oidy not quite so large and the 
water not quite so red. Then go 100 yards uj) a little stream from the last mound 
and you see a spring about as large as a washtub, spluttering and boiling very hard. 
This has no perceptil)le outlet, the water is clear as crystal, it is very cold and is much 
stronger of soda but not very unpleasant to the taste, although the gas arising from 



TO MARK THE ROUTP: (»F THE OREGON TRAIL. 5 

it makes it necessary to keep your face from over it for fear of strangulation. One 
rod above this is a spring not quite so strong, and the water is nearly red. It is 
almost thick with some red sub.stance. 

About a mile below these mounds is another powerful soda spring situated on the 
bank of the river. The water is very cold and clear, but the gases arising therefrom 
are nearly sufficient to knock one down and the noise made by effervescing is loud 
enough to be heard as a roaring sound several hundred yards distant. One-fourth 
mile farther on around the bend of the river is what is known as Steamboat Spring, 
the bubbling and splashing produced by nature throwing the water 14 feet high. 
The escaping gases from this spring are also very strong. 

Several old craters, dry now, show evidence of once having been springs of similar 
character. 

We turned from this and in 3 miles left the California Road and Bear River, 
thence to Fort Hall, 55 miles.- 

I must here go back. The Crow Indians possess the country from upper crossing 
of Platte to summit north. We saw but one of that tribe, and that was a squaw. 
She was a low, heavy, black, dirty piece of God's creation. However, we traveled 
all the way up Sweetwater with 500 or 600 Shoshoni or Snake Indians. They were 
very peaceable and quiet. 

From Fort Hall we kept on south side of Snake River or Louis Fork of Columbia 
over a sandy sage plain. Here let me say that from Fort Hall to Burnt River is the 
most drear and desolate country that you could imagine. It is certainly one of the 
most God-forsaken countries in the world. Here we suffered, here our cattle died, 
here we gave out, here we thought every night that we could not stand it another 
day, here I threw away my wagons, here we were sick, here we ran out of provi- 
sions, here we had to pay 50 cents per pound for flour. 

With the exception of the sickness we had on the Platte our trip was a pleasure 
trip in comparison till we came to Fort Hall. After we passed Burnt River the 
country had a more livable appearance, grass more plentiful. Here we met many 
Oregonians coming out to meet their friends. They told us fine stories about Oregon, 
said our trouble was nearly over. I told one of them what luck I had. He asked 
me if I had lost any of my family? I informed him I had not. He said, " If you 
get through with all your family, although you lose all your property, you may con- 
sider yourself very lucky." 

Arriving at the Grand Rondes we came to a very fertile valley on the Grand 
Ronde River where a few white traders live. Here we got a good many vegetables— 
we paid well for them, though. We paid a dime apiece for potatoes as large as a 
walnut. Other things in proportion. We came 8 miles from the Grand Rondes on 
the Blue Mountains through very heavy timber and crossed the Grand Ronde River. 
Next day we traveled 13 miles. Next day 16 miles and camped. Here we remained 
three days. 

We proceeded thence to the Umatilla River. It is about 45 miles across the Blue 
Mountaiii3 and through very heavy timber. From Umatilla we came to agency, which 
is an old missionary station 90 miles east of The Dalles. We had a pretty hard time 
until we got to the Cascades. The Dalles is so named from there being natural dalles 
or troughs in the Columbia. From here it is 45 miles to the Cascades of the Colum- 
bia. The Columbia is a very deep river. At places it has been sounded 900 feet, I 
am told, without finding bottom. Many of the emigrants went from the Cascades 
straight to Puget Sound. 

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